Black Girl Luxury Magic: The Top Names You Need to Know

A small consolation arising from the global anguish and protests against brutality and violence by law enforcement officers, the Black Lives Matter movement, and the heightened conversation about racism in America is the spotlight currently shining on talented black people in every field of endeavor. We’re celebrating that long-overdue trend with a look at some of the under-appreciated black designers, founders and retailers in the world of luxury fashion.  And while there are several black men at the helm of designer brands, as black women we want to highlight the top black woman-led luxury fashion brands to know right now. We love you, brothers, but it’s girls-only for this particular list. Here are some of the top names to know in the realm of luxury fashion brands founded and run by black women designers. If you didn’t know them before, prepare to be amazed. Black Girl Luxury Magic is real.

What are the top luxury fashion brands led by black women to know right now?

The current discussion about the lack of diversity in luxury fashion is long-overdue. Lots of brands and luxury retailers are pledging to hire more black talent; to stock more black-owned brands; and to make authentic diversity a core part of their DNA.

Which is great! But while we look forward to the day when there’s significantly greater diversity in the design studio, in the boardroom, and on the runway, we want to celebrate those who are making it happen right now.

We hope all of the well-established global luxury houses use this moment to do the hard work of creating a lasting change in their diversity and inclusion practices. But let’s celebrate the pioneers, visionaries and fearless entrepreneurs who aren’t waiting around for that to occur. The black women who are making things happen right here, right now in the realm of luxury designer fashion brands. 

first, be sure to do your homework

It’s worth noting up front that not every luxury fashion brand that appears to be designed and/or owned by black woman is actually so. We won’t name and shame, but in our research for this piece, we found several luxury brands who have hired black models (yay!) and who make some or all of their products in Africa (also yay!) – which would make you think that the power behind the brand is black. Upon further investigation, though, you’ll find that ultimately the profit from these businesses is flowing to an entrepreneur who is not of color (the first clue that this is probably the case is the absence of a photo of the actual owner of the brand).

No knock on them at all, but for purposes of this piece, we’re focusing on black women who are running their own luxury fashion brands and making their way in an industry that’s incredibly difficult for women of color.

Rihanna’s Fenty

We’ll begin with a shout-out to superstar Rihanna and her fashion label Fenty. This black woman designer and fashion luminary needs no introduction (and if you haven’t heard about Fenty, we just don’t know what to say to you, dear reader).

Pat McGrath Labs

Pat McGrath is one of the most influential makeup artists in the world, and her brand is filled with luxurious glittery shadows and last-all-day lipsticks. We had a ball at her Mothership installation at Selfridge’s in London last year and she is well-launched and well-known, which is truly great to see.

The O.G. of black women fashion designers: Ann Cole Lowe

Our hope is that the current generation of black women-led luxury brands will be household names, and not suffer the fate of so many who came before them. For example, Ann Cole Lowe is an African-American fashion designer best known for designing Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress, which was constructed with over 50 yards of silk taffeta. She was 55 years old at the time.

Lowe’s clients included the matrons of high society families, and in 1947, she designed the dress that Olivia de Haviland wore to accept her Academy Award for best actress. But the name actually sewn into the dress read “Sonia Rosenberg.” Because at that time, no one could be seen wearing a frock created by a black woman luxury fashion designer.

modern luxury fashion brands led by black women

Many thanks to Ebony, Essence, InStyle, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue for helping to highlight the work of these designers. May we be reading about them more and more in the years to come.

1. Aurora James – Brother Vellies

Aurora James launched Brother Vellies in 2013, crafting accessories with intricate designs that are handmade in South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Morocco. The Canadian-born designer makes it a point to enlist artisans from Africa to create her noteworthy shoes and handbags. Solange Knowles and Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex have been spotted in her designs.

James has been outspoken in recent weeks about race in retail and fashion, urging major retailers like Sephora and Whole Foods to buy at least 15% of their products from black-owned businesses. The Brother Vellies brand also recently began its “Something Special” program, which lets you sign up to receive a surprise handmade product in the mail every month.

2. Grace Wales Bonner – Wales Bonner

Having launched her widely-praised tailored menswear label in 2014, now Grace Wales Bonner is venturing into the women’s side of the market. The designer explores European and African heritage and history in her collections, using her designs as a direct response to notions of race and gender. Her collections explore blackness—Bonner’s mother is English and her father is Jamaican— in intellectually demanding ways. Prior collections have represented black culture with references to the iconic painter Kerry James Marshall and notable filmmaker Melvin Van Peebles.

Bonner’s line is carried at forward-fashion retailers like Dover Street Market, Selfridges and 10 Corso Como. And the designer has won a number of coveted awards along the way, including the prestigious LVMH Prize and the Fashion Award for Emerging Talent. Perhaps the true sign of her influence and reach: Meaghan, the Duchess of Sussex, was wearing one of her dresses at her first post-pregnancy appearance, when she introduced her son Archie to the world.

3. Sindiso Khumalo 

Sindiso Khumalo founded her eponymous brand in Cape Town in 2014 after studying at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. Known for her sustainable designs, inspired by her South African heritage, Khumalo was one of the finalists for the 2019 LVMH Prize. A self-confessed “textile nerd”, Khumalo designs fabrics by hand using watercolors and collage. Her visual style draws upon her Zulu and Ndebele heritage, and also speaks to the heritage of her birthplace, Kwazulu Natal.

Further, Harper’s Bazaar reports that Khumalo’s collections are inspired by the people in her family tree. Especially her mother, who was an activist against apartheid. She also incorporates the stories of other legendary black women in South African history, including Charlotte Maxeke and Sarah Forbes Bonetta.

4. Monique Péan

Environmentally-friendly fine jewelry designer Monique Péan launched her eponymous New York-based brand in 2006, after graduating from the University of Pennsylvania and working as an analyst at Goldman Sachs & Co. Since then, she’s earned several industry honors, including a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2009, and the Wallpaper* Design Award for Best Jewelry.

She uses exclusively 18-carat recycled gold and platinum. And the fossils she uses are found objects that don’t cause environmental harm when they are collected. She works only with repurposed and Fair Trade stones. And the results are absolutely stunning. 

5. Rebecca Allen

Rebecca Allen also worked in high finance before she decided to pursue her calling as a luxury shoe designer. We profiled her about a year ago, and her story is truly inspiring.

Like so many great innovations, Rebecca Allen footwear was born as the result of the designer’s own personal need for something that didn’t exist in the marketplace. As a banker, she needed to dress conservatively – without much color to distract from her messaging. But as a black woman, she couldn’t find “nude” shoes that matched her skin color. In an effort to aid others who faced the same dilemma, Allen launched her namesake label, which offers pumps, flats, and sandals in five different shades of nude.

6. Liya Kebede – LemLem

Already a well-known name in the world of designer fashion, supermodel Liya Kebede is becoming a force as a visionary and brand-builder with her LemLem brand. The LemLem collection of women’s, men’s, children’s and home goods is made entirely in Africa. Kebede employs local, traditionally trained weavers and their ancient techniques for all of the brand’s offerings.

The brand’s name means “to bloom and flourish” in the Ethiopian language of Amharic, and the chic breezy outfits made of woven fabrics are designed to make wearers feel that it’s exactly what they’re doing. We saw someone wearing one of the current collection dresses at the coffee shop this morning, and she looked supremely summer chic (and comfortable). It’s timeless modern luxury for all.

7. Carly Cushnie

You may recall the contemporary apparel brand Cushnie et Ochs. It was a partnership between two women friends – and after Ochs departed in 2018, London-born Carly Cushnie decided to continue the work on her own. Much to the relief of the brand’s fans, who include Michelle Obama, Jennifer Lopez, Kerry Washington, and Jada Pinkett Smith. 

In addition to its stellar collections of sexy, sculptural minimalist designs rendered in red-carpet ready evening gowns and day dresses, Cushnie has expanded into bridal wear. Carly Cushnie is dedicated to delivering a perfect fit with her pieces, so you can be sure that her sleek silhouettes will also flatter your figure.

8. Brittany Kozerski – Jade Swim

Drawing inspiration from the jade stone’s clean lines and beautiful surface, JADE Swim creates modern swim separates that easily transition into layering pieces for day.

Fashion editor and stylist Brittany Kozerski founded JADE Swim in 2016 when she recognized a gap in the market for versatile swimwear. Designed in New York and made in Los Angeles, the range uses the highest-quality Italian fabrics with shape retention technology, UV protection, and resistance to chlorine and suntan oils.

9. Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece – Ashya

Established in 2017 by co-founders Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece, ASHYA (pronounced “agh-shya”) is a New York–based design label featuring unisex travel accessories. The brand’s belt bags are nothing like the cliched “American tourist” looks of yesteryear. These are cool and minimalist, and crafted from luxurious materials in vivid colors and chic neutrals.

The co-founders express their vision for the brand as “designing multi-functional accessories to help the modern day explorer move more thoughtfully and fluidly throughout the world. Each collection emerges as an ‘ode to exploration,’ a motto that speaks to the process of understanding a diverse array of cultural narratives.” Beyoncé is reportedly a fan – we predict that you will be, too.

10. Corianna nad Brianna Dotson – Coco and Breezy

Corianna and Brianna Dotson are the twin sister duo behind their eponymous sunglass line, Coco and Breezy. Coco and Breezy Eyewear was founded in 2009 by the twin designers, DJs, and visual artists. Their early designs were a hit in the entertainment and fashion worlds, with customers like Rihanna, Prince, and Lady Gaga.

The brand is known for its signature cutouts and bold frames. Coco and Breezy’s designs have ranged from the “third-eye” sunglasses for the late Prince to recent limited-edition collaborations with high-end retailers and brands. You’ll find both prescription glasses frames and jaunty sunglasses – we’re going for one of each.

11. Amaka Osakwe – Maki Oh

Founded in 2010 by Amaka Osakwe, Maki Oh is a womenswear brand that fuses traditional West African techniques with detailed contemporary construction. Lupita Nyong’o and Solange Knowles are both fans of this Nigerian-textile influenced collection.

Osakwe runs the brand from Lagos, and we love the way she combines West African fabrics and weaves with modern silhouettes (think narrow, body-skimming dresses and ruffled statement pants). The overall effect is playfully sophisticated.

12. Stella Jean

Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean merges traditional Italian craftsmanship with cross-cultural references for her eponymous luxury fashion brand. The end result is a gorgeous melange of bold prints, colors and pattern mixing. Her happy-looking clothes belie the often-serious themes behind them.

As the first notable black Italian fashion designer, Jean’s unique point of view is authentically translated in her garments. With a deceptively light touch, she weaves a captivating global identity all her own. If you’re seeking a breezy beach dress that will immediately lift your mood (and who isn’t?), look no further.

13. Martine Rose

Menswear designer Martine Rose’s self-titled label has been an under-the-radar, in-the-know cult favorite since 2007. The British designer’s company is based in London, and over time it has evolved from a tightly-edited shirting collection to a broad-based luxury brand.

 

Rose is inspired by her Jamaican-British heritage and her deep interest and personal involvement in the music and melting-pot cultures of London. You’ll find her collections at 10 Corso Como, Dover Street Market, MatchesFashion, Mr. Porter, and SSENSE, among other locations. Shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, in 2019, the designer participated in the exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now – a major celebration of 50 years of black British creativity at Somerset House in London. 

14. KJ Miller and Amanda Johnson – Mented Cosmetics

Mented Cosmetics was founded by KJ Miller and Amanda E. Johnson out of the urgent need to redefine what “nude” means within the beauty space. The pair created the brand after struggling to find the perfect nude lipstick. 

The brand’s aim is that people of color feel prioritized when it comes to makeup – able to find a lipstick, gloss, and nail polish with their skin tone in mind. All Mented lipsticks are vegan, paraben-free, and nontoxic.

black woman-led luxury labels to know

Those are our picks for the top luxury fashion brands currently being led by black women designers and executives. When you start your next shopping spree (and we know you will, dear reader), keep these black woman-led luxury brands in mind. You can help make a difference, one outfit at a time.

join our community

For access to insider ideas and information on the world of luxury, sign up for our Dandelion Chandelier Newsletter here. And see luxury in a new light.

Forward This Article