Critiques

The Best Looks from Valentino Spring 2020 Haute Couture

Paris Haute Couture Week in January is one of our favorite fashion moments of the year. Usually held just a few weeks before the Oscars, it’s both a chance to revel in the gorgeous gowns and pantsuits. And also to speculate about which ones will end up on the red carpet in Hollywood in short order. Our favorite of all is the work of Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino. Here are our picks for the best looks from the Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture collection show.

the astounding beauty of valentino haute couture

We’ll just say it right up front: we LOVE what Pierpaolo Piccioli has done with the essence, style and spirit of Valentino. We actually got to meet him once, and he’s as charming, quick and witty as one might hope (they say “don’t meet your heroes,” but in this case it was validation of the massive crush we’ve had on him for quite some time now).

Look 40. Photo Credit: WWD.

We’re lucky enough to have some of his gorgeous ready-to-wear pieces in our wardrobes, and they’re among our favorite and most reliable go-to’s all year long. Feminine, authoritative, and highly functional (meaning: comfortable enough for an 18-hour day on the go), we rely heavily on Valentino ready-to-wear for our boss lady wardrobe needs.

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Sadly, we don’t live in the stratosphere that would allow us to wear any of his incredible haute couture pieces. But one can dream, and we look forward to these semi-annual shows in Paris as much as we do to the Golden Globes and the Oscar red carpets. And it’s not because of some elaborate fantastical set design (looking at you, Chanel). It’s because what’s on the runway is more than enough to captivate us. Couture is meant to be the stuff of dreams – and for us, watching these shows is literally our time to dream a little dream.

Look 74 (the final one of the show). Photo by Estrop/Getty Images.

the use of color

It’s in part because of Piccioli’s genius use of color – the juxtapositions of vivid and deep colors that shouldn’t go together – but somehow do – are among the designer’s most distinctive signature skills.

 

As we look at the slide shows of his haute couture runway shows, we frequently find ourselves exclaiming: “Wait. You can wear this color with that one?” See looks 45 and 55, below, to see what we mean. 

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the celebration of female energy

It’s also because – with a couple of exceptions – these are not ensembles that are designed to please the male eye. In fact, we find it funny that every year, inevitably a celebrity will wear Valentino on a red carpet somewhere, and the Sports Desk dudes here at Dandelion Chandelier find it mystifying and even irritating. We’re all gushing over the dress, and sometimes the head gear, and they’re confounded by why we’re so excited.

How great is that? 

the best of the Valentino spring 2020 haute couture show

Look 68. Photo Credit: Vogue.

You can be sure that someone will wear the red headdress above – which looks like a coral reef – to some public outing in the coming month. And lots of people will mock that person. We say, go ahead! We love All. Of. It. We would totally wear that to the right party.

We also love that this show doesn’t end with the traditional “bride” modeling an over-the-top white wedding gown. This one ends with an exuberant pouf of pink feathers, which is much more fun and a lot more liberating.

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the technical mastery of the Valentino atelier

Finally, anyone who appreciates fine craftsmanship has to pause and appreciate the sheer technical wizardry that goes into the construction of these marvelous clothes. The sleeves, the flounces, the hidden surprises that only the wearer can see. These are the elements, along with the fabrics, that justify the truly jaw-dropping prices that these clothes command.

the best of the Valentino spring 2020 haute couture show

Look 41. Photo Credit: Vogue.

If you believe that apparel can rise to the level of contemporary art, then Valentino haute couture is a space to embrace and savor.

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the best looks from valentino spring 2020 haute couture

Here are some of our favorite looks from last week’s Paris show. There’s so much color play going on here that it’s not really possible to group these in any particular pattern – but to the extent possible, we’ve ordered these along a rainbow spectrum.  In our humble opinion, these are the best looks from Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture.

1. Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture: Red

The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris

Look 21. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 20. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 72. Photo Credit: Vogue.

2. Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture: Pink

Look 43. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 59. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 23. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 69. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 74 (the final one of the show). Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 70. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

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3. Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture: Violet

the best of the Valentino spring 2020 haute couture show

Look 45. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 73. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 13. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

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4. Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture: Blue

 Look 55. Photo Credit: Vogue.

The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris

Look 62. Photo Credit: Vogue.

The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris

Look 71. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 30. The Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 show in Paris. Photo Credit: Vogue.

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5. Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture: Green

Look 46. Photo Credit: Vogue.

The best of the Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture show

Look 7. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 25. Photo Credit: Vogue.

Look 10. The best of the Valentino spring summer 2020 haute couture show. Photo Credit: Vogue.

the best looks from valentino spring 2020 haute couture

Expect to see more than one of these stunning creations on the red carpet at the Oscars in two weeks. If history is any guide, one of the most prominent celebrities there will be wearing a stunning Valentino gown – Lady Gaga at last year’s Oscars, and Jennifer Lopez at this year’s Golden Globes.

In the meantime, we’ll be seeing these lovely dresses in our daydreams. Which look number is your absolute favorite?

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For access to insider ideas and information on the world of luxury, sign up for our Dandelion Chandelier Newsletter hereAnd see luxury in a new light.

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